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The most challenging jewel was the beetle because it was "a grotesque character" that Underhill and his staff needed to somehow make beautiful, he said. They used black diamonds to encrust its head, a canary diamond for they eye and more diamonds on the insect's belly. Then there are the moveable parts: The jaws depress and the wings open to show a 10-carat blue tanzanite with surrounding diamonds and latticework.

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