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Author Topic: Sewing machines & shalwaars... Questions about crinkly fabric and making handbags p5
quidscribis
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We're looking at buying me a sewing machine, and we're heading to our local Singer store - it's the only reliable place we know of locally to buy such things. They have a website and all, with their product line listed. There isn't a wide variety of sewing machines available, so I've narrowed my options down to the following three. The specs are not listed on the site, and I know that when I ask questions, I'm not necessarily going to get the truth - they may not know themselves how things work or what the features are for or that sort of thing.

I have a fair bit of experience sewing - I've been doing it since I was five. But I've never bought a new machine and with one exception, I've never worked on anything fancier than a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch machine. Yep, that was it. Oh, and I had a serger for years as well and I loved that beast! It was an Elna 4 thread and it worked like a dream. So, point being that, when it comes to buying new, I'm a little clueless.

These are what I've got it narrowed down to, and I'm leaning towards the middle one:

Cheapest - Easy sewing, 18 stitches which also lists the following
• Easy Sewing Without Discs
• Free Arm Sewing
• 18 Stitches
• L.C.R. Needle Position
• Reverse Push Button

mid-price - 18 stitch with buttonhole which also lists the following:
• 18 Stitch Patterns - This mid-market mechanical has been engineered to meet with the needs of collaborators incorporating an extensive 18 stitch pattern functionality.
• Thread Cutter - Conveniently and neatly cut your excess thread ends. This implement allows cutting of thread directly and conveniently. Enhances ease to complete stitching tasks and continue with new ones.
• 6mm Width & 5mm Length - To allow for wide range in pattern designs, the unit comes with an adjustable stitch width up to 6MM and stitch length up to 5MM.
• 1-step Buttonhole - This mechanical model comes with a quick One Step Buttonhole system.
• Needle Options - Spots 2 needle sewing capability and allows for 3 needle position selection options providing a wide scenario of usage functionality.
• Drop Feed - Allows for easy switching from ordinary sewing to free hand embroidery.

more expensive - Cast Iron Zig-Zag Machine which lists these features:
• Cast Iron Zig-Zag Machine, Flat Bed.
• Motor Optional.
• 30 Interchangeable Cams,
• 4 Step Buttonholer

Motor optional on the last scares me, to be honest. The middle one looks to me like the best bet. I don't know what 2 needle sewing is about - is this sort of a poor man's serger without the cutting ability? Ie, locking up the stray ends of fabric so it's all nice and neat and tidy and doesn't fray? Or what does that mean?

Opinions, please, if you can from the scant information available.

We're looking at buying it sometime between now and Thursday.

Thanks! [Smile]

[ March 19, 2006, 02:48 AM: Message edited by: quidscribis ]

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Nell Gwyn
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I've never bought a machine either, but I've used several different brands via 4H sewing and costume shop work in college. I'd go for the middle one, too. I have no clue about the two-needle sewing (a bootleg serger sounds like a good guess, though), but as the cheaper one lacks a buttonhole function, I'd cross it off the list because buttonholes come in handy. [Smile]

I've never seen anything like that last one, but - if it's made out of cast iron, that'd probably be obnoxiously heavy, wouldn't it? And "motor optional" makes me think of my parents' antique sewing machine that runs by foot pedal, but that can't be what that means. Perhaps it means a secondary motor is optional?

I've used Singer, Bernina, Kenmore, and Elna sewing machines, and out of those, I liked the Berninas and Elnas the best. But the Singer and Kenmore models I've used were older, so the newer models are probably a lot more comparable between brands. I know you said Singers are what's available near you, but I'm just sayin'.

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quidscribis
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I'll dispel one notion upfront - other options available from the Singer store include foot-pedal sewing machines, no electric motor. They're needed in this country with only 62% of the country having electricity, and those with electricity having frequent power outages (we've had more than a dozen in the last week, for example - but it has been particularly bad lately.) So yes, it is possible that they do mean foot-pedal operated.

I've lived here long enough that I'm used to these things and I forget that not everyone else knows what I know. [Smile]

The other brands you mention are likely not available in this country, or if they are, I'd have to really hunt for them. Singer is a chain store, and in that sense, they're already much more reliable than other stores that won't honor returns for defective equipment and can't do anything about warranty issues. I didn't make that clear before, and I should have.

I agree with what you say about the button-hole function. That, to me, is useful even if I only use it occasionally or seldom. [Smile]

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theCrowsWife
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Oh, I have a sewing machine question, too. But I'll wait until quid's question is answered before asking mine. I don't want to hijack the thread.

--Mel

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Ela
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The midprice one looks like a reasonable choice to me. I agree that it's worth it to have a button-hole function.

I have two really old sewing machines with not too fancy options, and to tell you the truth, for most things you don't need a fancier, more expensive machine.

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Nell Gwyn
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Ah. I hadn't thought about power outages. How long do those usually last there? Hmm, the only foot-pedal machines I've seen are pretty much built into their own tables in order to house the belts attached to the pedal. That one looked like it just sits on a tabletop - I wonder how that works with a pedal?

Singers are very reliable, so you shouldn't have any problems with it. My mom's machine is a Singer, and she's had it for over 20 years with no trouble. I don't dislike it, but I must say I'm more attracted to the bells and whistles on the newer machines. [Big Grin] Doubtless, yours will have these in abundance. [Smile]

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Nell Gwyn
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To clarify: by "bells and whistles" I mean little things like digital stitch length displays and electronic setting buttons rather than clunky knobs - you know, the important stuff! [Big Grin]

Plus I just liked the overall design on the Berninas and Elnas better, but then that was after I'd worked with them a lot, so I'm sure it was just because I'd gotten used to them.

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Ela
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Nell, you are obviously too high tech for me. My sewing machines precede the digital era. (One was my grandmother's. [Smile] )
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Nell Gwyn
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Heehee. The digital thing caught me off-guard at first - I thought it made the machine look like a warped microwave! [Razz]
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Ela
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[Big Grin]
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theCrowsWife
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Ela, you look like the person to answer my question. I have a Kenmore sewing machine from 1962, a model 90. It was my husband's grandmother's sewing machine. It has a cabinet that it fits into. Now, when his sister moved to Tucson, she lost the screws that attach the machine to the cabinet. Without those screws I can't fold the machine down. Where would I find replacements? The manual only refers to them as "hinge screws" with no part number. I got a half-dozen different sized screws from a hardware store, but none of them fit quite right.

Oh, and this thing weighs a ton. Imagine me trying to install it in the cabinet when I was nine months pregnant [Eek!] But, it still works after 40+ years. I call that quality.

--Mel

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quidscribis
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CrowsWife, go ahead and ask now. I don't mind. [Smile]

Power outages can last anywhere from a second (if we're really really lucky) to 12 hours. During droughts, which seems to be three or four months of the year, Colombo has power outages schedules daily for different areas - probably one area gets it one day a week, that sort of thing. Since we're outside of Colombo, it doesn't affect us as much. Last week, we had four power outages one day that lasted a total of four hours, another 8 hours out over night (I use a CPAP machine at night to keep me breathing, so I notice these things), and another 6 the following day lasting a total of another couple of hours. Oh, and two days before that, we had a scheduled power cut from 8:30 to 5 for maintenance. But like I said, this is a bit unusual even for Sri Lanka.

The east and the north, however, where the civil war has mostly taken place, has a lower percentage of electrical infrastructure because of the war. Bombs, guns, land mines, lack of safety for engineers and workers to install stuff. Ya know. The usual.

Back to sewing machines. . . I've never gone high-tech. Low tech is fine. But what's that two-needle thingie? ( [Wall Bash] NOT button thingie!) And is it likely that this sewing machine can handle zippers?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm going for the middle one. Cast-iron no motor is out for sure. And if Fahim is willing to spend more money, why not get one with more features? [Big Grin]

Edited to correct dumb errors. Urgh.

[ September 20, 2005, 12:54 AM: Message edited by: quidscribis ]

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Ela
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Yeah, quid, I was wondering about the zippers too, cause none of the descriptions actually mention that. Did you say you are actually going to the Singer Store to shop? If so, you can make sure it has a zipper foot. (I can't imagine it wouldn't, though. Maybe that's why it's not mentioned - it's taken for granted.)
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Nell Gwyn
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Wow. [Eek!] All those outages would be Very Irritating. Especially if it can affect your health! My dad is on oxygen constantly, so that'd definitely be worrying.

I'm not sure where you're looking with the "two-button thingie" - do you mean something on the pic of the machine? I see the two sliding things to pick the stitch width and the needle position, and then between those I see a sideways wheel thing to pick which stitch you're using. Was that it?

It probably comes with a foot to use just for zippers, and if it doesn't, I'm sure you can get one separately at the store.

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quidscribis
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I don't know - it's not worth taking anything for granted here. Seriously, that usually leads to huge problems. [Eek!]

Yep, we're going in person to the store, and before we actually put any money down, I read the specs first and see what comes with it. The Singer store knows us - we bought our fridge, stove, washing machine, entertainment system, and probably a few other things there, so they know us by now. [Big Grin] And I pretty much always ask for the manual to look at the specs. [Big Grin] They probably hate me for that.

But it's a good idea - for me - to figure out as much in advance as I can so I know what I need to ask or look for.

And yes, I'll be looking for a zipper foot. [Smile]

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quidscribis
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Er, oops! I meant two-needle thingie. [Roll Eyes]
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theCrowsWife
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If I were in your position, I would go for the mid-price one as well. That thread cutter sounds really handy. I imagine that if you did a lot of sewing that would definitely increase your efficiency.

My machine has the two needle set-up as well. I think it's mostly a decorative thing, but it would also add some strength to your stitching.

--Mel

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Nell Gwyn
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quote:
Originally posted by quidscribis:
Er, oops! I meant two-needle thingie. [Roll Eyes]

Oh, okay! [Smile]
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Ela
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Crow's Wife, I am not sure about how to get parts for old sewing machines. I actually need to replace a part on my grandmother's machine, also, and I've been putting it off.

Isn't Kenmore a Sears product? Have you checked with them?

Other options:

*We have a real oldtime hardware store with a salesman who can answer most questions and find almost anything we need, so we often go to him for stuff we can't find elsewhere.

*Are there any sewing specialty stores around your area?

*Look at some of those sewing groups online, there's bound to be someone on one of those groups who can answer your question (my daughter briefly asked questions at one such group when she had a fabric-finding question, and got some answers).

Sorry I don't have a better answer for you.

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quidscribis
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OOOH! Mel, does it explain what the two-needle thingie is for in your manual, if you have one, other than for decorative stitching?

I've done a Google search, and either my Google-fu is extremely low today, or there isn't much. Maybe I need to drink some Google-potion.

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theCrowsWife
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No problem, it's a place to start anyhow. I'm thinking I'm just going to have to load the machine up in the car and take it to a sewing machine store. That way I can actually try out anything that they suggest.

--Mel

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Nell Gwyn
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lol, quid - I tried googling for it too, but no luck. But I did find this page, which has cool animated demos of how a single-needle machine works. [Big Grin]
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Nell Gwyn
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Ooh! Ooh!! I think I found it!!

Using a Twin Needle

It sounds like you'd use it for something like jeans or military stitching. That actually sounds pretty cool - it'd save you from having to sew something twice. Hmm...I wonder if there's a shortcut device for doing true French seams?

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theCrowsWife
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Unfortunately, no. It just tells how to set up the two needles and what kind of thread to use. But the very next section is decorative stitching.

If you just did the basic stitch with two needles, you would end up with two parallel lines of stitches. It seems to me that that would be a quick and easy way to do reinforced hems or things of that nature. If you had a lot of them to do, it would probably be worth the bother of threading a second needle.

--Mel

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quidscribis
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Yay Nell! [Kiss] You're my hero! Thanks!

It makes sense, now that it's pointed out to me. Whew!

Okay, folks, that's the machine I'm getting - the middle one. I can't think of anything against it, other than the possibility of no zippers, but I'll figure that out at the store. Altho, truth be told, I've done zippers with a regular foot - it's not ideal, but it can be done. I hope I never have to do that again.

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theCrowsWife
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Although, the section on thread selection for the double needle seems to indicate that it is mostly for decorative work:

"Use only mercerized machine embroidery thread or mercerized sewing thread size 50 and finer. Machine embroidery thread is recommended for both upper and lower threading."

--Mel

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rivka
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In my experience, regardless of what it comes with, Singer machines can be fitted with a zipper foot as an added attachment. So that may be a possibility as well.

Good luck. [Smile]

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quidscribis
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Mel - you're right, and it's an excellent idea. I think it's a useful feature, especially for items that will take a lot of wear.

Nell - what are true French seams? *off to Google*

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theCrowsWife
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Even if it doesn't come with a zipper foot, you should be able to buy one seperately. Even if you had to buy it online, it would be light enough to be worth it, I would think.

--Mel

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Nell Gwyn
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Aw, shucks. [Blushing]

If you google "twin needle sewing machine", it gets mentioned a few times more than "two needle sewing machine". But I haven't seen any more elaborate explanations of what it does other than parallel straight stitches, hems, and pintucks, and implications that replacement needles are more expensive than regular ones. Which I guess stands to reason.

True French seams (I think that's the proper name for it) are what you might use on chiffon or fabric that frays really easily. Basically, you end up sewing all the seams twice - the first time inside-out, and then the second time so that the right side of the fabric is the finished side. Plus there's lots of pressing and trimming going on between those two steps. It's a huge pain - I had to do it on a 4H dress, partly because we didn't have a serger, and partly because 4H judges are super picky. Plus that dress had a double layer of fabric (one chiffon layer, one lining layer) and I had to French seam both, so I pretty much sewed the same dress 4 times! It has a really nice finished look, but it's SO obnoxious to do. [Wall Bash]

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quidscribis
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Very interesting. I found info on French seams here. I've seen them a lot, of course, and always wanted to know how to do them. I could figure it out on my own, of course. Hmm. Actually, I did. But now I know what they're called. [Smile] My life is complete.
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ketchupqueen
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I have a 1960's console Singer with extra attatchments (including a ruffler.) My dad got it at a yard sale for $45. [Big Grin]

The Jaffa have a saying: they do not make them as they once did.

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pooka
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I was just going to add a nail to the coffin of the heavy duty model- nothing bites like losing a cam. The only stitch I sometimes use is a hidden hem stich, but that should be on either of the 18 stich machines. I guess I've used a decorative criss cross stitch from time to time, but that still brings the total number of stitches that I know what to do with to 4.

Also, I install zippers without a special foot. But my machine does let you position the needle close to the side. Mainly, it isn't worth it to me to change out the foot and risk losing it.

For over a year I was convinced I had lost my bobbin cover. I finally got my husband to buy a new part, and when it came I realized it was a drop in bobbin. [Wall Bash]

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quidscribis
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CrowsWife - you're right, it would be worth it. I'll see what they say - it may come with a zipper foot. We tried calling the shop, but it was busy. We'll try again in a minute. Fahim's going to do the talking - no one ever understands my accent!

So I tell him I want to know if it has a zipper foot, and he asks me what it does. So I explain it to him, including the fact that it's not a full foot, but it's open to manuever around the zipper, and he interrupts and tells me that all I had to tell him was that it was for sewing zippers. [Roll Eyes] That's why it's called a zipper foot, honey. [Big Grin]

Nell - yeah, after you mentioned twin needles in your first thread with the link, it made sense that that's why I wasn't getting anything useful. Thanks. [Smile]

Hmm. So the second needle is a special one? This could be interesting.

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Nell Gwyn
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Oh yeah, I called it "true French seam" because I recently learned that there is such a thing as a "false French seam" that looks a lot like an actual French seam, but it's really just a cheat and isn't as strong. No idea if it's called that in real life though - I just make the distinction now to be on the safe side. [Smile]
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quidscribis
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Pooka - what the heck is a cam and why are they interchangeable? Yep, that was another nail in that coffin for me - the fact that I don't have a clue what it is.

Nell - what's the false French seam? No initial stitch, just a fold and tuck, then one stitch? That's my guess.

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theCrowsWife
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Cams are little disks that you insert to get the fancy stitches. My machine has them, although I've never tried to use them.
[EDIT: The first two machines you linked don't use cams. They have the different stitches built in.]

I could be wrong, but I think that the twin needle setup is actually two needles welded to a single shaft that you put in the needle holder. So if one needle breaks or is worn down, you have to replace the whole thing.
[EDIT: While looking at the cams for my machine, I found a double needle. It's basically how I described above, only the two needles are attached with plastic, not welding.]

--Mel

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quidscribis
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Thanks for the explanation on cams. Turns out I have seen them - I was, um, perhaps 9 or something - but never knew what they were called other than "disks for fancy stitches".

quote:
I could be wrong, but I think that the twin needle setup is actually two needles welded to a single shaft that you put in the needle holder. So if one needle breaks or is worn down, you have to replace the whole thing.
Oh.

That would suck. But again, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.

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Nell Gwyn
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I googled it for a definition (cuz I forgot!) and found this: "False French Seam - Sew a standard seam, fold the seam allowances in on eachother, and then sew the seam allowances together along the edge of the fold."

But what the costume manager at my current school said it was sounded more like this: "False Flat-Felled Seam - Place the pieces of fabric wrong sides together and sew. Trim one of the seam allowances and fold the other over it, pressing both flat. Then sew again along the edge of the fold." Only instead of the trimming, I think she said to fold both of the seam allowances under itself over to one side (did that make sense?), and then topstitch it. But I'm positive she called it a false French seam. [Dont Know] Ah well, neither is one that's really all that common or necessary.

This site is where those definitions came from, btw - it has some good explanations of other stuff that might come in handy. [Smile]

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theCrowsWife
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[Big Grin] You're welcome.

It's funny, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to sewing, but I just love machines and figuring out how they work. That's how I know all this stuff: I obsessively read through the instruction manual when I first got the machine. Maybe someday I'll actually be able to use these neat things I know about [Wink] .

--Mel

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quidscribis
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Hey Mel, I obsessively read through every single instruction manual and assembly instructions for everything I've ever received or purchased in my life, and that includes the fine print of every single contract I've ever signed, despite protestations of "it's just a standard contract."

Nell - thanks. I found the same initial definition you found at the same site. [Big Grin] And yep, I agree, good site. [Smile]

rivka - if you come in here - if you don't want me to respond, don't give me something to respond to! [Razz]

And yes, I had fun. Thanks!

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ketchupqueen
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quote:
Thanks for the explanation on cams. Turns out I have seen them - I was, um, perhaps 9 or something - but never knew what they were called other than "disks for fancy stitches".

Me, neither, and I have them on my machine!
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Nell Gwyn
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I have never heard of cams or fancy stitch disks. [Confused] I think all the machines I've used were of the built-in fancy-stitch variety. Do they work sort of like templates or stencil-y things?
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ketchupqueen
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No, it's a mechanical version of the electronic programming. (And just as easy to use, and mine has lasted through 40 years of use.)
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rivka
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quote:
rivka - if you come in here - if you don't want me to respond, don't give me something to respond to! [Razz]
I've been reading the thread with interest, but wasn't expecting to have anything else to add to it.

And please tell me how I was supposed to conduct rigorous testing without doing what I did?

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Nell Gwyn
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quote:
Originally posted by ketchupqueen:
No, it's a mechanical version of the electronic programming. (And just as easy to use, and mine has lasted through 40 years of use.)

Oh, okay. I was thinking this is some manual thing you have to do, like switching the foot.

And as it is now 2am for me, I am retiring from this thread so I can get some sleep. Yay, sewing! [Sleep]

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theCrowsWife
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It is manual, but it looks very easy. On my machine there is a little cover on top that you open, and you just drop the disk into the holder. Assuming that you have the cams right there and you haven't lost the one you want, the ease of use is probably pretty comparable to the built-in machine.

--Mel

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theCrowsWife
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Oh, and quid, you're starting to scare me. It seems like we have a lot in common. What was your blog address again?

--Mel

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ketchupqueen
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Yeah, you just pull out the regular one and put in the fancy-stitch one. Each disc has both a number corresponding to the pattern chart in the instructions and a representation of the stitch itself. I have all the basic ones and some of the fancy ones; my grandma has some of the harder-to-find, special ones, like kitties and hearts. It's about as much work as using the stitch selector on my mother-in-law's quilting machine, honestly. [Smile]
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Nell Gwyn
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Oh, kitty stitches sound cute! I always love playing with the different fancy stitches. [Smile]

But now I really am going to bed! (Self-discipline is a trait I have never learned... [Grumble] ) Night, all!

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