posted
I have a question for Jewelry crafters and wearers here. What can you tell me about metal allergies. I know some people react to some types of metal and avoid jewelry that contains such metals. Or they only buy earrings with "hypo-allergenic" hooks or posts. If I were to make earrings to sell, what should I use to avoid problems for sensitive wearers? I know pure gold is hypo-allergenic, but 24k gold findings are pretty expensive. What about gold plated? What about gold-filled or vermeil? Surgical steel would work (I'm guessing), but it also isn't gold and would detract from some designs.
The local craft store carries jewelry supplies but the only gold fish-hook ear findings they have are gold-plated with some undeclared base metal (which I'm assuming is probably brass or copper).
Any info or jewelry allergy experiences would be apppreciated.
Posts: 6394 | Registered: Dec 1999
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posted
it depends on the allergy. MOst hypoallergenic hooks are just nickel free, so if people react to other metals they're probably no good.
Most people are okay with sterling, which is a bit cheaper, and usually easier to find, but if you're only looking for gold colors, that's not much good to you.
I make ones of gold, sterling, and the rest on hypo-allergenic hooks, since nickel is the most common allergy, for the ones I sell.
Posts: 3493 | Registered: Jul 2001
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Well, is "gold plated" adequate? Theoretically it's only gold that would be touching the skin.
Posts: 6394 | Registered: Dec 1999
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Problem is, thin gold plated doesn't last very long. Thicker plating might? Might depend on the number of layers or the total thickness of the plating? The better ones could cost more, of course.
Posts: 1014 | Registered: Jul 2005
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I'm pretty sure gold plated is not adequate, although I guess it depends on what is underneath. 18+ karat Gold and sterling silver are generally hypo-allergenic as they are purer metals and not mixed alloys.
From targetwoman.com
quote: Hypoallergenic earring It is estimated that nearly 15% of Americans suffer from nickel allergy. Women suffering from nickel allergy and contact dermatitis would do well to use hypoallergenic earrings and hypoallergenic jewelry. Some women tend to experience itching, flaking and swelling and soreness of the ears when using earrings that have metal alloys.
Raw brass clasps and harmful alloys are used in crafting fashion jewelry to keep down costs. Pure gold jewelry is usually hypoallergenic since gold has a low chemical affinity for most elements and it is resistant to corrosion and interaction with human skin. Lightweight surgical stainless steel is also a chemically passive metal that is hypoallergenic.
posted
For myself, I've found that with the gold plated ones the gold can flake off and I have reactions. So I can't even wear those but can wear silver or surgical steel if I don't wear them for more than 7-8 hours a day or gold I can leave in for as long as I want. I think you would find a market with whatever you choose. I will more often buy a pair or earrings no matter what they're made of if I like them enough (discomfort aside)
Posts: 697 | Registered: Nov 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Theaca: Actually, KarlEd, my friends with bad jewelry allergies can use 18k gold. Problem solved
I know nickel is one of the worst metals. That's all I know.
Actually, I'm finding 14k gold fish-hooks are starting at around $25 per pair, versus 50 pair of gold plated for under $3 online, and 24 pair of gold plated for under $3 retail craft store.
Posts: 6394 | Registered: Dec 1999
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I'm allergic to gold, as is my mother. No, not nickel or tin or any of that other stuff that's combined with gold. Gold itself.
The reality is that no one single solution will ever suit everybody. A variety of options would be better.
Posts: 8355 | Registered: Apr 2003
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Well, some of the gold-plated ones are gold-plated surgical steel. Shouldn't that be pretty much hypo-allergenic?
Posts: 6394 | Registered: Dec 1999
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quote:The word does, however, appear in the Oxford English Dictionary. The venerable publication describes hypoallergenic as "a diminished potential for causing an allergic reaction."
quote:Health Canada has not set any standards that a "hypoallergenic" product is supposed to meet. The US Food and Drug Administration says, "There are no federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term hypoallergenic. The term hypoallergenic means whatever a particular company wants it to mean."
Hypoallergenic doesn't mean that no one will be allergic to it, just that, in theory, fewer people will be allergic to it.
Posts: 8355 | Registered: Apr 2003
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My sister has a pretty bad nickel allergy, so any jewelry she wears has to be 18k gold, sterling silver, or non-metal materials such as hemp, wood, cloth, glass, etc. I might be wrong about this, but I think she uses surgical steel posts/hooks for earrings (which seems to be what you're asking about). It may just depend on how strong a person's allergy is.
She used to come home from school when she was younger with red welts and rashes on the back of her thighs, from where her skin touched the metal bolts holding the plastic chair together.
Posts: 4077 | Registered: Jun 2003
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With 15% of the population needing the more expensive product, would it really help the bottom line to start out with the high-quality stuff? Or would you be marketing to that subset? I make jewelry mostly for fun, and though I'd love to have 100% sterling silver for all my projects, I use what I can get cheaply.
But actually, if the metal is only in the form of some things like clasps, spacers, findings, etc, I wonder if contact would be minimal enough not to make a difference except in cases of severe allergy.
I've heard surgical steel contains some nickel, but that sounds pretty rediculous if it's supposed to prevent metal allergies.
Posts: 4089 | Registered: Apr 2003
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Nickel is the metal in jewelry that most commonly causes contact dermatitus. Followed in the order of frequency by copper, chromium, cobalt, silver, palladium, platinum, and gold.
Which is somewhat misleading because ~50% of those who are allergic to nickel are also allergic to palladium. Palladium is just far less frequently used in jewelry. And most "gold" allergies are actually allergies to the metal alloyed with gold to harden it. 24karat gold is unusably soft, but 18karat gold sold as hypoallegenic is usually -- not always -- okay for those who have a "gold" allergy.
Though 18karat gold is okay for hoop earrings, it is considered too soft for use as posts. For your purposes, a 14kcarat (maybe 12karat) gold post sold as hypoallergenic is probably best.
DO NOT use gold plated posts. Odds are extremely high that the alloy under the gold plate has a high content of metals known to cause contact dermatitis. And even though the seller may say otherwise, the gold plate will rub off of a portion of the post after a relatively short period of time.
posted
I can only use gold and silver. The back of my watch is stainless steel and doesn't make my arm break out (It must not have whatever metal I'm allergic to in it.) but if I get a watch with any sort of metal band I WILL break out. (yay for the geeky rubber banded watch...)
posted
Karl, Your best bet might be vermeil findings. Vermeil is usually high-content gold bonded over sterling or fine silver. You might also be able to find some fine silver findings. Fine silver is .999 silver. It is soft, but that shouldn't matter for earring components. I was wondering if you thought about making the earring findings. Well, if you were going to use hooks or french-wire style, you could get some 22 or 24 ga wire and shape it into hooks. You would have to make sure and file down the ends so that they don't snag. Check your local craft store for the wire. If they don't have it in stock, they might be able to order it for you.
I'll send you a list of on-line places I purchase my components from if you would like me to. Do you have a business license? Some of them are wholesale only and require a minimum purchase.
As for earrings, I prefer hooks, french-wires, leverbacks, and hoops. I don't like using posts. Another surprising preference is earring-clips. They do make those in sterling silver, however, they are more expensive per pair than pierced so I usually make those based on customer request.
Posts: 822 | Registered: Jul 2001
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posted
Can't you use surgical steel posts, even if the earrings are gold toned? I know I have earrings with steel posts that have a gold finish on the outer part. The post won't ever show.
Of course, if you're talking fish hooks, that's a different story.
My ears break out with anything other than hypoallergenic surgical steel, sterling silver, or gold. 10K gold works fine for me. I think it's nickel that I have the allergy with.
KarlEd, I would be so excited to see you start selling jewelry! You are so talented.
Posts: 14428 | Registered: Aug 2001
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My mom can't use anything with any amount of nickel or she gets huge welts. Surgical steel posts only for her. Sterling silver is okay for her for rings and bracelets and such.
Posts: 21182 | Registered: Sep 2004
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I think for earrings which will be frequently taken in and out, and have wear and tear you would want your posts to be a lower alloy or not actually gold at all.
I work daily with SS316 it is my Friend. According to the ASTM Standard for SS316 (which I'm holding in my hand and never leaves my desk)The surgical variant of SS316/316L is UNS alloys S31670 and S31673 They differ in the amount of Carbon present which has nothing to do with allergies.
The basic chemcial composition is: Carbon 0.08% Chromium 17.00-19.00% Manganeese 2.00% max Molybedendum 2.00-3.00% Nitrogen 0.10% max Nickel 13.00-15.50% Phosphorous 0.025% max Sulfur 0.010% max Silicon 0.75% max The remainder is Iron
Now with Nickel and Chromium concentrations at that high a level I'm very surprised that allergy sufferers don't have more problems with it. However they don't break out while eating dinner with their forks either. I'm making an educated guess from general corossion chemistry that the Moly stablizes the Ni and Cr so that it doesn't have the same affect on skin contact as a non-Moly alloy would.
Moly is 3-5 times more effective at inbhibiting corrosion than Chromium or Nickel. Moly is relatively high in price compared to Ni and Cr though due to a worldwide shortage and I'm not sure how well it alloys with gold. You can only achieve a maximum Moly concentration in steel of about 6%.
My trusty book has a listting of all standard precious metal alloys too. I can scan and PDF them to you if you are interested. There is a cross reference for all jewelry grades to the US code of Federal Regulations title 15 section 295 which can probably be found online for free.
Posts: 11265 | Registered: Mar 2002
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I react to everything less pure than 24 kt gold, including surgical steel, sterling silver, 10/14/18kt gold.
I can wear platinum and 24kt gold, and I recently discovered that I can wear titanium without a problem.
Titanium is nice: aerospace grade titanium is relatively cheap, it's much more durable than most other valuable metals, and it's almost indistinguishable from platinum when polished.
Posts: 4313 | Registered: Sep 2004
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Wow, BannaOj, you never cease to amaze me with your expanse of knowledge!
Belle, I'm toying with trying to sell some of my stuff, but I wouldn't know where to start. Got any advice?
These earrings, (and my book thongs) are the only things I've made so far where I can crank out a quality product quickly with materials far enough below the retail value of the finished product to make it worth my while. Everything else I'd have to sell to NYC socialites or an art gallery to turn a profit. Posts: 6394 | Registered: Dec 1999
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Yeah, turning a profit is the issue - because even if you order in bulk beads are not the cheapest of hobby supplies.
Best bet would be to approach some local, privately owned boutiques and sell wholesale to them. Because many boutique owners are strapped for cash, you could offer to put them in the store on consignment, so if they don't sell the owner isn't out anything and you can just come get them back and try somewhere else. You'll get a good feel for whether or not they'll appeal to a customer base. And, once you get one boutique carrying your items, it only gets easier to get others interested.
Posts: 14428 | Registered: Aug 2001
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Well, I'm friends with a woman in town who owns a nice gift and home elements type boutique. She carries a small amount of jewelry, but that isn't her main focus. She did tell me that one of my pieces was something she could probably sell, but it wasn't my own design so I didn't really want to sell it. Maybe I'll show her some of my recent stuff and see if she likes it.
Posts: 6394 | Registered: Dec 1999
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My sister cannot wear gold unless it's 24K - and not electroplate. She cannot wear the allegedly hypoallergenic jewelry. But she can wear sterling silver with impunity. She recently discovered a www.silverjewelryclub.com (which uses .925 silver) and has been buying up quite a bit. I have no idea if she's tried titanium yet.
Posts: 4515 | Registered: Jul 2004
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KarlEd, I would love to see your work, if you wouldn't mind sharing it with me. Getting into the jewelry business is hard work, but talent, perseverance, and use of quality material will get you far. (Of course, you know this with your other craft projects.)
Have you tried selling at trunk shows or home parties. You could have one at your home or have a friend host one for you.
I agree with Belle. Small boutiques are wonderful resources. I have some of my pieces on consignment. I've never thought of wholeselling them. It is something I need to check into.
Do you have a business license? With one, you can then purchase from wholesalers. Of course, you will also have to collect and submit sales tax. If this is more of a hobby/craft than a fully realized business, then one may not be necessary.
posted
My mother was allergic to pretty much everything except gold, 18k or higher.
(Including steel and sterling silver.)
I believe she had some limited success with coating other metals with nail polish, but I'm not positive.
I can't tell if I'm allergic to metal or not, because I'm allergic to heat, and therefore anything, gold, leather, steel, whatever, will give me a rash. I can wear a watch on rare occasions--like three or four times a season--and rarely for more than an hour or two at a time.
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