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Uncle Orson's Restaurant Guide
The Restaurant Roy


Utah Restaurants
The Garden Wall
The Restaurant Roy
Utah Valley's best restaurants used to be the mid-range Magleby's and the better national chains like The Outback. These always imply waiting lines, however, and noisy dining with panicked waiters barely able to keep up, while the food is predictable good but rarely commentable.

Then a new building arose on State Street at the brow of the Orem hill, with an old-world- inspired design that stood alone in this architectural wasteland. Rumor had it that it was going to be a restaurant; the building promised that someone with taste was in charge of the project. And when the restaurant opened, I was not disappointed.

With service at the level of The Garden Wall and a gracious, quiet dining area with gorgeous views of the valley, day or night, the dining environment could not be better. (My favorite space has no view at all, however, for it's on the State Street side of the building; but they were wise enough to put a turret there, so in that round room a group that might become a little noisy, as my groups tend to do, has some privacy and doesn't interfere with the other guests.) So careful are they of this environment that they rigidly enforce their policy of admitting no one under the age of eight. I confess to being frustrated by this policy once, when our whole family was in Utah and I wanted to bring my three-year-old daughter, Zina, to eat with us. Kristine and I have carefully trained Zina to be fine-dining-compatible — she knows how to scream, but in restaurants she invariably uses her church manners. But I understood, when they turned me down, why they could not be seen to be making any exceptions. The result of this policy is that the ambience is always restful and gracious; leaving the kids home is a small price to pay.

As for the food, the appetizers are not exceptional, but I do enjoy the antipasto platter; usually a double portion serves a group of six rather well, though I wish there were a bit more feta cheese, for I always run out too soon. The onion soup gratinee is quite good, and the salads never offend with the otherwise-ubiquitous-in-Utah iceberg lettuce. I used to order the ravioli entree as an additional appetizer, with each member of the group getting one or two ravioli with a perfect sauce, but inexplicably this has been removed from the menu — perhaps because as an entree it could not compete for popularity with the more ambitious and hearty selections. The honey pecan chicken is rich and sweet and compulsively enjoyable. I have rarely been disappointed with any entrees, and while I tend to opt for a simple ice cream dessert, they offer chocolate confections that leave my more-addicted friends salivating for more.

One of the highlights is the Italian sodas, with oddish flavors like hazelnut, kiwi, and many others. Do try them, though, because Restaurant Roy serves them with cream mixed in, which makes them a rare delight. You may find yourself sampling several different flavors before the night is over! In the non-alcoholic Utah Valley environment, it's not surprising that the daiquiris and pina coladas are virgin (but excellent!). And they have recently taken to serving a style of bread that is the only match I've ever seen for the four-peak rolls that are such a treat at Leblon in Greensboro.

Until I first ate at Thanksgiving Point, I would have said that Restaurant Roy was the only restaurant in Utah Valley to which I would go for a fine dining experience. And it still remains true that Restaurant Roy is the best in Orem and Provo, while Thanksgiving Point, being in Lehi, is rather a sturdy drive away. And I've had so many good experiences at Restaurant Roy, because of their wonderful ambience, the good food, the perfect service, and the wonderful company I've brought with me, that I make it a point to eat at Restaurant Roy every time I'm in town. I'll see you there!

Restaurant Roy
On the east side of South State Street, just as the road begins its descent to Provo; the building is so lovely you'll recognize it at once.