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Our stove has been tripping a circuit breaker (240 V circuit). We've ordered a new one, but as of last night the circuit breaker will no longer reset. When it's in the off (not tripped) position, there's a lot more give than in the other circuit breakers. I've unplugged the stove, so unless there's a short in the outlet at the other end, the breaker is definitely bad.
Does anyone know how much replacing a 240 V circuit breaker might cost? Or how much rewiring a 240 V outlet would cost? I don't want to get ripped off because I don't know what's fair.
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Would you be doing the work yourself (ie just paying for parts) if you just had to replace the circuit breaker?
Posts: 16059 | Registered: Aug 2000
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I'm comfortable wiring fixtures and outlets, but not working on the panel. I caled around, and got a quote for $95-115. That's low enough (the part is $45 at Home Depot) that I'm not too worried about getting ripped off.
I did look up how to do it, and it doesn't seem too difficult, but I'd rather not do it if I didn't have to.
We'll replace the breaker, then possibly the outlet at the other end. 240 V lines have to be straight runs, so there's no other place for problems within that circuit except the cable itself. And I REALLY don't want to contemplate the cost of that repair.
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So telling a prospective contractor that you are an attorney in criminal prosecution won't get you a fair bid? What is this country coming to?
P.S. I think to work on the panel you need the house main shut off, which only a contractor can do. What else? I think that panel work has to be certified by an inspector from the power company. But that's in Utah.
[ January 10, 2005, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: Trisha the Severe Hottie ]
Posts: 666 | Registered: Dec 2003
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If the lines are good, replacing the outlet shouldn't be that difficult. Just remember:
0) Make sure you get the really, really, right kind to replace it. A lot of the 240 V outlets look similar, but aren't.
1) TURN OFF THE BREAKER
2) CHECK THE OUTLET TO MAKE SURE IT'S OFF
3) CHECK THE OUTLET TO MAKE SURE IT'S OFF, AGAIN
4) Unwire the old one, rewire the new one (Note: those wires can be a royal pain in the ass to work with!) Also: Make sure that the A-wire goes to the A-terminal, the B-wire...etc. Make a sketch of what you started with.
5) Make sure you haven't left anything behind...particularly, inside the new outlet or wiring box.
6) Turn on the breaker
7) Listen for popping and/or exploding sounds. Be ready to nail it with the fire extinguisher and open up all the windows.
8) If (not_7), then go and plug in your BRAND NEW STOVE.
9) Repeat step 7.
10) If (not_9), then: enjoy the new stove.
Posts: 1862 | Registered: Mar 2000
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ssywak, I'm going to let him replace the outlet when he's here, mainly for convenience's sake. I've done outlets; I just did one in a cabinet for out soon-to-arrive built-in microwave. If I didn't need the breaker replaced, I'd do it myself, even though 6-gauge wire is tough to work with.
You've pretty much listed how I do it, except you left off about 3 trips back to the breaker and 5 "check the outlets."
In fact, I was taking the wire that ran to the old range hood, so I had the exposed wires hanging from the ceiling. I brushed my hand across them (after about 10 checks) just to make sure that if I was going to get shocked, it would be a fleeting moment.
quote:I think I must have gotten the fact that you got married confused with your passing the bar.
As happy as I'll be when I pass the bar, it won't compare with getting married.
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I hope your microwave isn't right over the oven. Mine was set there, and I think the heat was bad for it.
Posts: 666 | Registered: Dec 2003
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It'll be 20 inches above the stove - the oven's right under the stove (they're a single unit).
Posts: 26071 | Registered: Oct 2003
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If the breaker is faulty, which it seems to be, then there's really no need to get a new stove. I guess you know that, though, right?
I agree that it's a good idea to get an electrician to do the work. He will know for sure what is hot and what isn't, inside your panel. Changing a breaker, though, is dead easy. I think I would have done that first, then seen if it kept tripping. The breaker may have been your only problem.
You can check if things are shorted out by cutting off the power then testing with the ohmmeter part of your multimeter. Any reading anywhere close to zero ohms (say 5 or less) between any leg and ground (be sure to turn off power at the source before testing) means a short. You can easily tell which component of the system is the problem that way.
If you don't have a voltmeter then yeah call an electrician. (Are there people without voltmeters? That's so sad!)
Posts: 6246 | Registered: Aug 2004
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posted
This little dealie (you can find them for about $10 at any home depot) is very nice when you are working on wiring around your house. Always check that it lights up when placed near a live circuit. Then try it all around the place you are about to work to be sure all the AC power there is dead. A very handy tool!
Posts: 6246 | Registered: Aug 2004
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