posted
Well. That the subject says about everything.
I want a decent car for $2500-$3000 (Obviously it'll be an older one with atleast 115k miles) - but I just cant stand looking for one. I was talking to one used car salesman and when I told him the Blue Book price was somewhat less than he had listed he said he'd never heard of a "Blue Book" before.
Another salesman wouldn't stop trying to sell me cars that were in the $8000 - $9000 range.
Is this because I'm trying to get a cheap car, or is this normal regardless of the cost range?
I'm worried that I'll end up spending $2500 and get a car that wont run after a month. Ick.
Posts: 367 | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
My little town has more than its fair share of small used car lots (the lots are small -- the cars come in all sizes). They tend to have better prices than the big dealerships, and because you are dealing with a small business, you are likely dealing with the owner himself, whose good reputation is vital to staying in business.
I was nervous about buying a car without a dealer, because I wanted to have someplace to go with problems or grievances if I had any. That said, folks selling their cars independently usually offer the best prices.
I've heard that buying a car through ebay has drawbacks -- not only are you getting a car sight unseen and without benefit of inpection by an independent party, but it also may take a long long time for your car to be shipped to you. Like months.
Posts: 10397 | Registered: Jun 2005
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posted
After going to 5 or 6 use car lots (not dealerships - those guys act like I'm wasting their time when I mention my price range) I'm thinking I'll probably buy from an owner. I just *feel* a little more secure with a lot over an owner - not that I should since I'll be moving 1800 miles right after I get the car
It's just that, to me (and most people, I'm sure!), $2500 - $3000 is a crud load of money and I'm worrying that I'll be out the money and still not have a decent car. I know worrying doesn't help, but it's easy to do.
Posts: 367 | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
Always have an independent mechanic inspect the car before you clinch the deal. It is definitely money well-spent. If it gets a clean bill of health, you've got yourself a deal. If the mechanic indicated that maintenence or repair is needed, you can negotiate the asking price down based on the estimate.
Posts: 10397 | Registered: Jun 2005
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posted
Well, if I buy from directly from an owner I suspect that they'll be reluctant to give me the car for an inspection without me paying it (and some may be reluctant to go to an insepction with me because of the time involved). In that case, would adding something about the car passing an inspection to my satisfaction or my money back be appropraite?
I just really am not good at bargaining - I wish people would just tell me an honest price so that I wouldn't have to haggle with them.
Posts: 367 | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
If the seller is not willing to take the car to your mechanic, then you don't want to buy from them anyway. I had to buy a used car last year (with a budget only slightly higher than yours), and one guy I was working with was dragging his heels about getting the car to the mechanic (he cited too much school work). I decide that if he wasn't willing to work with me, I didn't want his car. When I later looked that car up on Carfax, it turned out that he had lied about the previous ownership.
So, invest in getting a Carfax report, and be sure to get the unlimited option because the first car you check might not work out. Then take it to a mechanic, and if that checks out you should be good to go.
Also, if you are planning to get a car loan it's a good idea to be pre-approved. That way you know the money is lined up and you can close the deal very quickly when you find the one you want.
Posts: 1269 | Registered: Jun 2005
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posted
I buy from my mechanic, who also has his dealer's license. If he doesn't have what you're looking for, he'll take you to the auction so you can look at cars, set your bidding range, and he'll do the best he can.
Posts: 2849 | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
I sold new Toyotas for a little while and would sometimes sell used ones when the new was out of their price range. It all depends on the dealer you go to but here are a few hints that may or may not help.
1. If they are really pushing a particular car, chances are they are going to make more money off of it. If a car has been on their lot for awhile, the salespeople are given more incentive.
2. Always ask for a CarFax report, we gave them out to our customers for free...when they asked.
3. You'll be surprised how low the price can go if you threaten to walk out and do business with someone else. (Nicely, don't be a jerk, they have to eat.)
4. If you buy at the end of the month, they're more likely to make you a good deal, because they have monthly quotas to sell.
Posts: 137 | Registered: May 2005
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Basically, in your price range, it's going to be a total crap shoot. Given that, perhaps the better approach would be to buy an even less expensive car (say in the $1000 range) drive until it dies, and buy another one.
Unless you need the car to look nice (as in impress clients), driving something that you wouldn't mind throwing away in a year is actually fairly economical, especially if you consider the residual salvage value of it (if there is any).
Think about it. If a $1200 car lasts you a year, you've just had $100 a month car payments. A bargain. If the car's salvage value is figured in (maybe you'd get a few hundred bucks for the scrap) then you're even more ahead of the game. (of course, there are cars that they won't take as scrap).
If a $2400 car lasts you a year, you've had $200 car payments. Still not bad, but you're getting into the range of what you could pay for a new car on a long-term loan (a basic econobox for $10,000 could come in not much different from $200 a month and it'd be new).
Pay more than that for the used car it really better be nice and reliable.
If I were in your shoes, I might go around to my favorite mechanic and ask him if he knows anyone selling a decent old car that would last you a year or so.
Posts: 22497 | Registered: Sep 2000
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I think I'll be able to find something reasonable. I've found a number of 94 - 95 cars with around 160k miles on them - if a mechanic gives it the okay it *should* last two or three years with minimum upkeep (it seems hard to go to a mechanic and not pay less than $500).
I'm going to go to my dad's mechanic (who he trusts - I found out the one I used to use wasn't actually fixing things 'all the way') and see if he knows anyone selling.
Posts: 367 | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
Isn't it amazing how long cars last these days? [geezer alert]In my day, you had to throw a car out if it had 100,000 miles on it. Unless it was a Volvo. Now, the cheapest econoboxes are going for 200K without a hickup. Things sure have changed. [/geezer alert]
Good luck!
Be careful what you include under minimal maintenance. I'm thinking oil changes, air filters, and tires (maybe) as the most I would invest in a car I wanted to keep for 2 years.
Posts: 22497 | Registered: Sep 2000
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posted
I heartily recommend trying to buy from a trustworthy mechanic, or that mechanic's brother, or someone recommended by the trustworthy mechanic. We've had excellent car-buying experiences in your price range going that route.
Posts: 1681 | Registered: Jun 2004
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posted
Our last Volvo went to almost 400K with no mechanical problems at all, but the body was rusting out from all the salt on the roads in the winter.
We're being better about getting regular car washes for our new Volvo.
Did I mention that I highly recommend Volvo cars, too? Posts: 1681 | Registered: Jun 2004
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posted
You should be able to find something with lower miles than that. I bought a '93 Cutlass Supreme three years ago with 104k miles on it, and now it's up to 133k. I paid about $3500 for it. My dad's opinion (and he's very good with cars) was that I could possibly get as much as ten years of driving out of it if I took care of it.
Posts: 9945 | Registered: Sep 2002
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