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Author Topic: Calling All Alaskans...
akhockey
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Are there any Alaskan hatrackers out there? Am I all alone? [Confused] Or, people from other far and away lands, which automatically make you a celebrity, like it or not, in conversations?
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Lyrhawn
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How close are you to those useless bridges they are building over there?
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Crystal
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I'm from Alaska, but I mostly lurk. Also, I'm pretty sure Verily the Younger is from Alaska. As far as I know that's all.
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quidscribis
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure Verily is from Alaska. And there's someone else, I'm pretty sure, but can't remember who off-hand.

And you don't become a celebrity until you're from far far away. Like Sri Lanka. [Big Grin]

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Narnia
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Hi Crystal! [Smile]
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The Pixiest
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My friend Lou lives in Alaska. Do you know him?

He calls it "The Fugitive State"

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Verily the Younger
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Yeah, I'm from Alaska. I'm also still in Alaska, so I'm one o' them exotic, faraway type folks.
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TomDavidson
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So you're going to vote out your politicians, right? [Smile]
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ElJay
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There's at least one more Alaskan who posts, but I don't remember the handle. . .
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Crystal
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Hi Narnia! I'm still in Alaska also, but only until tonight. Then I head off to Idaho for college. [Smile]
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akhockey
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Yay, fellow Alaskans. Sweet. I'd say Alaskans are much more rare than Sri-Lankans, just maybe not in the US. Our huge 650,000ish population pales in comparison to their 18 millionish. Plus we have polar bears. You won't find wild polar bears in Sri Lanka, unless you are reaaally unlucky.
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breyerchic04
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memory guilded is from alaska I think.
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jeniwren
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<-- from Alaska, but happily living elsewhere. Seventeen years in Anchorage counts, right?
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ketchupqueen
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memory_guilded is from Alaska, I sent her a package there. [Smile]
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quidscribis
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Sure, you have polar bears. But we have free range cows and elephants walking the streets like cheap whores. You don't get that in Alaska, do ya? [Big Grin]
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Tinros
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I lived on Elmendorf AFB for 2 and a half years, if that counts.
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akhockey
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We have moose. Moose are like the mutated, possibly inbred estranged cousin of the cow. They're evil, vicious creatures. They just come right up on your lawn, completely unannounced, and eat your (already dead) flowers. Or, if you have a tree in the yard...they munch away at them. Real mean they are...
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Narnia
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Crystal, which school are you going to attend in Idaho?

< ---went to school in Idaho

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quidscribis
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Yeah, I know meese. I've eaten a few. And caribou, too, from the North West Territories (I visited my sister when she lived there.) Mmmm. Caribou stew. Mmm. With bannock. Yum!
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Crystal
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Not only do we get moose in our yards, but a few weeks ago we had a black bear going through the neighborhood and getting into people's garbage. We even got a few good pictures.

Narnia, I'm going to University of Idaho. What school did you go to?

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Narnia
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I went to Ricks College (back before it was BYU.) I've heard that UofI is just gorgeous! And they have great jazz there. [Big Grin] You'll have a great time!
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Katarain
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My husband are in the VERY early stages of considering moving to Alaska.

What's it really like there? My mom is already getting upset about the prospect of me moving so far away. She says, they have a real problem with depression up there because it's dark for half of the year, and it's expensive, and I'll just hate it. I think she's biased.

So, is it really dark or light for 6 months out of the year? Is that all of Alaska or just the northern parts?

Can you get Cable Internet everywhere? Do you have to do without basic amenities off the road system? You know, the things we take for granted in the lower 48.

Is there a real problem with depression?

Is it just like living in any other state, except really far away?

How warm does it get in summer?

I'm going to look a lot of these questions up online for basic facts, but what I'm really looking for here is personal/emotional reactions to and opinions of living in Alaska.

Thanks!

-Katarain

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rivka
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Kata, it's a big state. Specifying where in Alaska makes a big difference to pretty much all your questions.
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Katarain
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I'll take what info. I can get. [Smile] I guess it all depends on where we got jobs and what we found out about each area. I'm thinking road system, though.
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El JT de Spang
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You don't have any idea where in Alaska you're thinking of moving? Did you just pick the name out of a hat or something?
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Katarain
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Well no. What's wrong with that? I realize it's a huge place, but since I know little about the differences between areas, I haven't chosen one place. There are teaching jobs available all over the state, or rather--there will be when the year is closer to being over. Right now, Fairfield is looking for teachers for the 06/07 school year. So, I looked into what life is like in Fairfield. I found it pretty interesting, and think I could like living there, but I don't know enough yet.

I also know there are places off the road system with varying populations, size, ways of life, etc. I know most places are like little villages, and most people order groceries online.

I'm just looking for general information on those different areas. Where we'd end up really does depend on where I got job offers, then we'd choose among those--or we'd decide not to go at all.

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El JT de Spang
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I just wondered, why Alaska? Since you didn't mention a specific part of Alaska I didn't think you were going for a job. Since your parents didn't like the idea I assumed you don't have any family up there. Alaska just seems like a pretty random place to move to.

My roommate in college was from Anchorage, and he liked it. But the light/dark thing is true all over the state. I think he said it would get dark by the time school let out in the winter, and in the summer sunset wasn't till 11pm or so.

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aspectre
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Where the heck is Fairfield? Neither the USPostalService nor even the State of Alaska website has it listed.
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ketchupqueen
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Fairbanks?
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UofUlawguy
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My sister-in-law and her family live in Palmer, Alaska. We'd like to plan a trip up to visit them next year.
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jeniwren
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Fairbanks, not Fairfield. Prepare for very very cold winters, and hot summers. It's extremely arid in Fairbanks (desert plain), so start testing moisturizers. While you're at it, you might start packing your favorite bug repellant too, because the mosquitos in Fairbanks carry small children away in their clutches. They're very big. Which makes them easier to catch, granted, but since they are also numerous, makes the likelihood you will be bitten very high.

Fairbanks has longer summer days and longer winter nights than Anchorage, as it is 360 miles north of there. Mt Denali is close, and that area is very beautiful.

Personally, I would not live in Fairbanks for any amount of money, but I know people who love it and would never leave. I don't know about cable being available, but I can't imagine that it's not. Being the second most populated city in the state, there is quite a lot there considering you're out in the middle of nowhere. You're likely to find most amenities you'd find in any midsize town.

Be prepared that no matter where you live in Alaska, you will be isolated from the rest of the US. Going someplace outside Alaska is a 3 hour plane ride from Anchorage. Longer from Fairbanks. That's to Seattle. Plan your vacations out of state to include two travel days, as it will take that much time.

I do not recommend moving out into the bush as your first foray into living in Alaska. It is even more isolated with fewer amenities. You may end up needing satellite internet access, which is not cheap. Actually, speaking of cheap, things are more expensive in Alaska, no matter where you go, since almost all goods are imported. But there isn't any sales tax, so that's a plus. Nor is there income tax. But there is property tax. Once you've established residency, you'll qualify for the Alaska dividend check. I don't know what it's running now. I haven't lived there in almost 10 years now (time flies).

If you love the outdoors, Alaska may be for you. The summers are wonderful. Winters are very long. But if you like snow, it might be your place. Make SURE of your jobs before you go. I hear the economy is better up there than when I left, but it's always good to know you have a job up there before you go.

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Katarain
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Thanks jeniwren. [Smile] And yeah, I mean Fairbanks. I had been looking at sites about West Virginia...I think that's where I got the Fairfield. [Smile]

I really appreciate that good information. Gives me a lot to think about. We're also considering other mountainous regions further north.

I do actually have family in Alaska, an aunt and uncle. I liked them both the couple of times I saw them. Ever since their two daughters came to stay with us for a summer, I have been enchanted by the idea of living in Alaska.

My husband and I are looking for isolation, but also within reach of civilization and people. And we love mountains and snow. I'm not sure about those mosquitos, though. [Smile]

We'll do lots more research before we decide anything, and we'll secure jobs before we go anywhere.

I'm also looking into West Virginia and some of the north-west states. My mom was suggesting Massachusetts to me today (as a way to get me to turn to other places than Alaska)... which is a possibility, but I'm pretty sure my Very Southern husband wouldn't want to live in the "north." (Alaska and the western north is NOT the same thing as the Civil War north.) I would be okay with it, though, since I'm from the north.

So, we have lots of possibilities. I think we'll both be happy for a change, and to get away from this area of Georgia.

So thanks for the replies. [Smile]

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imogen
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suntranafs is from Alaska, but I haven't seem him post for ages.
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Mariann
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quote:
Originally posted by breyerchic04:
memory guilded is from alaska I think.

That's me. (Changed my name.)

I didn't know there were so many Alaska Hatrackers. 0_o

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Mariann
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quote:
Originally posted by Tinros:
I lived on Elmendorf AFB for 2 and a half years, if that counts.

Ooh! I got married a few months ago to a man in the Air Force, so now I'm living on Elmendorf. (Before I was living in Anchorage.) Neat!

~M

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Tinros
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I lived on... H Street, but I think they renamed it Eagle street, cuz people got tired of being referred to as letters. I went to Mt. Spurr in second grade, though, and all of my friends lived really close to me.

Any idea if there's a woman named Mrs. Fry still teaching at Mt. Spurr?

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Mariann
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quote:
Originally posted by Katarain:
My husband are in the VERY early stages of considering moving to Alaska.

What's it really like there? My mom is already getting upset about the prospect of me moving so far away. She says, they have a real problem with depression up there because it's dark for half of the year, and it's expensive, and I'll just hate it. I think she's biased.

So, is it really dark or light for 6 months out of the year? Is that all of Alaska or just the northern parts?

Can you get Cable Internet everywhere? Do you have to do without basic amenities off the road system? You know, the things we take for granted in the lower 48.

Is there a real problem with depression?

Is it just like living in any other state, except really far away?

How warm does it get in summer?

I'm going to look a lot of these questions up online for basic facts, but what I'm really looking for here is personal/emotional reactions to and opinions of living in Alaska.

Thanks!

-Katarain

I've noticed that either people love it up here, or they hate it, for reasons that it's a.) cold and dark in the wintertime and b.) there's "not a lot to do."

I agree, there isn't a lot to do in the wintertime unless you're into skiing or snowboarding, but during summer you can go camping, hiking, fishing, sightseeing... the only thing we really lack up here are good clubs. Our malls aren't spectacular, but I've never heard anybody complain about them.

As for SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder)- it exists, but the majority of people commit suicide during SPRING, as opposed to winter, so my thought is that our winters aren't sooo unbearable. As for the dark/light issue, I do believe it's only the northernmost parts of Alaska that have full days of darkness and full days of light. Not to say our daylight hours are weird in Anchorage, where I live- but it's nothing that a person can't cope with.

The cost of living is expensive too, I'll admit- but we don't have a sales tax and you get a free check from the government every year, just for being an Alaska resident. (The Permanent Fund Dividend is derived from our excess oil revenue. Pretty awesome!)

Other than that, it is just like living in another state. My husband is from Virgina/Washington D.C. and he's coped with moving here just fine. (He's in the Air Force and got stationed at Elmendorf AFB, right next to Anchorage.) The biggest difference though is that Alaska is relatively pristine compared to the rest of the U.S.

Think Colorado, except with smaller cities and vaster wilderness. For that, I love my homestate and when it comes time for us to leave for another base, or to settle in HIS homestate, I'm going to have major depressive withdrawl symptoms. I've been to several states in the Lower 48, and while it is more "exciting" in that the cities are bigger and there's more shopping and club-hopping/concert opportunities, I don't think I'd ever prefer it over this place.

But that's just me- I grew up here, so I have a deep appreciation for it, and like I said most of the people I've known to move up here either love it or hate it. The lovers are oftentimes people who have an affinity toward nature and the beauty of such a pristine environment. Those who hate it are usually big city types.

To each his own. If you have ANY other question, give me a holler! I'd be more than happy to tell you more about Alaska.

Take care!

~M

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aspectre
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I'd advise against purchasing a house in Fairbanks or the Alaskan Interior and North in general. Permafrost melting due to GlobalWarming is making the ground subside underneath foundations, in turn causing the buildings to tilt, buckle, and crack.
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akhockey
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I've lived in Fairbanks all my life (17 years I guess, I have lived in LA and Dallas the past "year"), and I absolutely love it. I think it's a wonderful place to live. The community is very friendly for the most part, and as far as there being "nothing to do", that just depends on what your tastes are. We have a few college sports teams (one of which, the Hockey team, just tied and beat the #1 Ranked NCAA DI hockey team, the Minnesota Gophers -- Go Nanooks!). I don't know how much you dig sports, but the hockey there is very well supported, as well as youth programs for baseball, basketball, football, soccer, you name it. We have 3 golf courses, with none of them being very good, but they get the job done. I think Fairbanks gives you an almost perfect balance of privacy and community support. Besides sports, there are also TONS of outdoor things to do. It's endless, really. In the winter there are snowmachining, snowboarding, skiing, ice-fishing, you name it. Nearby, there is North Pole (kind of a lame quasi-town. it's a rival of Fairbanks and is actually located to the south), which is a small community even compared to Fairbanks.

As far as nearby attractions are concerned, there is Chena Hot Springs, which is about an hour or so North of the city. It's a real neat spot, located on some natural hot springs, with cabins to rent and everything. Two hours away is Denali National Park, which is just UNbelievably gorgeous. It is a really phenomenal place to visit. White-water rafting, climbing, and a guided tour (take the bus all the way in, or cars about 1/3 of the way in) that's something you can't miss.

Shopping wise, we have like one mall, the Bentley Mall. You have your basic clothing needs met, there just isn't a Huge mall. Most people either get what they need somewhere in town, or order online or go on shopping-sprees to Anchorage (5-7 hour drive, 45 min flight) or Seattle. There are lots of neat local shops that have cool stuff there, too. Everything in Alaska is more expensive, there's no doubt about that. We have to bring almost everything in, so you will see everything costing much more. A gallon of milk is almost 5 bucks (last time I was there), and most meals at McDonalds or other typical fast-food chains (speaking of which, we have McDonalds [3 of them], Burger King, Wendy's [2], Subway [3], Quizno's [2], A&W/KFC, and 3 or so Taco Bells). There are some chain restaurants, like the newly built Boston's Pizza, but most restaurants are local eateries, and there are some good ones so don't worry.

As far as groceries and stuff go, Fred Meyers is a big store there, and we just got a Wal-Mart this year. We're expecting a Barnes & Noble soon, so you won't have to rely on the ONE Waldenbooks we have and our horrible Library selection. That's the one bad thing, is book selection is not so great. Movie rentals, theres Blockbuster and a few local places that do the trick. There is one movie theater there, a 16 screen Regal Cinemas theater. There has been explosive expansion in the past few years, and I can only imagine it will get bigger and bigger.

Now as far as the weather being bad, it depends on who you ask. If you ask someone who expects good weather, they'll tell you it sucks. Lately, we've had EXTREMELY mild winters. On average the snow will start in mid-late October and completely leave in May. The winters can range anywhere from -50 (usually only for a few weeks in LATE December and early January), to 20 degrees fahrenheit. For me, I'm used to it, so it wasn't that bad. I love it. Sure, it's cold sometimes, but if you prepare adequately, it isn't hard to deal with. Springs and fall are about just over a month long each (with both being very pretty, while they last), which leaves us with about a 3 month-long summer. Summer's are GORGEOUS! It's very dry in Fairbanks and the surrounding area (it's located in a valley, the "Golden Heart Valley"), and temps range from 70-90 degrees. As of late, the 90 degree summers have wreaked havoc on our arid temps, and caused some forest fires which produce ANNOYING smoke, but usually it's been just beautiful in the summers. The whole depression deal is also a case by case scenario. In the middle of the winter, on our shortest day, I think there are three hours of daylight. In the middle of summer, on our longest day, there is 24 hours of sunlight. There is an average of six or seven minutes gained/lost a day. So from June 21st and on, you lose about 6 minutes of sunlight a day, until December 21st, in which you gain about 6 a day. Again, I was raised there so it seems normal to me, but I can easily understand how people can be affected by it. Sometimes in the winter, you'll go to work when its dark and come home when it's dark. The one thing that most people don't get, is that the change is gradual. You don't wake up in the summer and think "what the? where'd the darkness go?". Once you get used to it, it's pretty neat. The stars are GORGEOUS at night, and we have a sweet ice festival in the winter that has HUGE and very complex ice structures that are lighted up and it's quite a sight to see.

The mosquitos, as you have heard, are horrible. I'm used to them, but they are just EVERYWHERE, especially if you live down by the river (of which there are two in the town. The Chena River is the main one, it cuts through the entire town, and the Tanana is a glacially fed one on the outskirts). Moose are seen frequently around town, as are tons of birds and squirrells and the likes. The bigger mammals are mostly out of town quite a ways.

As far as raising a family goes, I loved it here. It really can be a positive or a negative though, which I'll explain. There are about 8 or so Elementary Schools (my mom is a 2nd grade teacher at University Park Elementary, Go Falcons!) that feed into three or so Middle schools. Then, those schools feed into either West Valley or Lathrop High School. There is also Monroe Catholic, the sole private school in town. WV and LHS dominate the sports world for the most part. Anyway, I was fortunate enough to grow up being friends with the "popular" kids, so I didn't really have to worry about persecution or being ridiculed by people. The great thing about that was that I could maintain a network of friends from Elementary School all the way through graduation, which is really an amazing thing to do. Unfortunately, if you get labeled as a "loser", it's hard to lose that status throughout your schooling days because the community is so close knit. Fortunately, I'm sure that your kids will turn out fine if you're any indication of their future selves (my attempt at a compliment AKA I really respect you). The one problem with such a small community, in conjunction with the "nothing to do" attitude, is that there is a huge number of kids who drink/do drugs under age. I wouldn't be surprised if about 75% of my school (WV) smoked with about 90% drinking, and the rate has to be higher at the other school. I stayed away from this mainly due to my out-of-school activities (hockey in the winter, soccer in the summer), so I really recommend getting your kids involved in sports or any other activity because it will help them stay away from that crap (as you probably already know).

There is a local cable provider or two, as well as Dish Network in most places. Also, there are two cellular providers there, so that's covered pretty well.

Oh, and as far as permafrost goes, yeah it sucks, but most constructors who are worth anything can figure out whether or not there's permafrost near your house, and there are methods to dealing with it and making structurally safe houses on permafrost so it's not THAT big of a deal.

I guess the one thing I want you to take from this is that Fairbanks isn't as ridiculous as most people claim it is. It's a wonderful place to live, and you have everything you need there. I personally feel that its pros outweigh its cons. If you want to be isolated while still being able to get what you need, there's nothing wrong with Fairbanks. If you don't like outdoors stuff, can't stand the cold, or find the dark horribly depressing, then it might not be for you. I love it though, and I have no problems recommending it as a place to raise a family. My dad, btw is from Indiana and my mom from Oklahoma/Indiana and they adjusted well enough. Sorry for the randomness of the post, I was just freewheeling the information. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask or email me.

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akhockey
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another great thing is that you're 4 hours back from the east coast, so you can watch hockey games from 3-7 and prime time television after that! Or, if you get Dish network, choose LA as a local news time zone and watch all prime-time TV shows before your friends, and then call them and tell them what happens! It's great...
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Crystal
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quote:
I've noticed that either people love it up here, or they hate it
I definately agree with this. My parents moved to Alaska through the military before I was born and liked it so much that my dad got out of the military just so we could stay in Alaska. I've lived in Anchorage, right near Elmendorf, my whole life and really like it there. Almost everyone that I know who moved out of state has missed it and wanted to come back.
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Mariann
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Can't you visit Chena hot springs in the winter? That's what I've heard, and I think it sounds fantastic!

~M

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akhockey
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Mariann, yeah, you can and it's sweet! It's an amazing juxtaposition jumping out of the water, into a snowbank, then racing back to the water... [Smile]
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Nell Gwyn
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[Eek!] It gets up to the 90s?? Really?? I never knew that! I'd heard about the mosquitos, but never would've imagined temps got that high that far north.

And I thought the Chicago/New York latitude had a wide range!

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jeniwren
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Crystal, I had almost the same background. My dad was stationed at Elmendorf when I was a baby. My brother was born there. But my dad was career military, so we went elsewhere until I was 9, when we were stationed back at Elmendorf again. Dad got out then, and we stayed. My parents moved out of state when I was 20, I think. I moved out of state when I was 27. Can't say I miss it at all, but I have long time friends who will never leave, they love it so much.
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akhockey
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yeah, summers in Fairbanks are actually REALLY nice. It's kind of the opposite of what people think, but there you have it. Maybe a week or two of total rain, most of the time it's relatively nice out. Nothing better than hanging out with your friends camping on a sandbar at 3am still being able to drive some golf balls in practically broad daylight...

Plus, Alaskan animals are much less frightening than animals in the lower 48. Take Texas for instance. There are freaking scary spiders and snakes and the like here. Here are a few reasons why large Alaskan animals are better than small Continental Animals...

1) You'll never be under your covers at night, feel something on your leg, and look down to see a bear crawling on your leg.

2) The average person doesn't eat 8 wolves in their sleep during their lifetime.

3) A moose will never jump out of some ankle-high grass to give you a mortally poisonous bite to your arm.

4) You'll never go to the bathroom at 2AM, turn on your lights, and see something moving on the floor, only to find out it's a Grizzly.

5) You won't then throw a towel over that animal and attempt to squash it using your fist, foot, and eventually your body weight, only to find that its thick exosekeleton and generally wily mannerisms allow it to escape imminent death.

If you can't tell, Texas has given me some close encounters of the shelled kind, and I haven't enjoyed them in the slightest...

[ October 19, 2005, 02:07 AM: Message edited by: akhockey ]

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Mariann
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Wait a minute- I heard Fairbanks has those flying, screeching cockroaches?

My friend told me of her experiences with one, and it made me shudder.

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akhockey
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Is that a joke? Because such things do not exist. We have like.....mini-june bugs. It could be that a flying june bug came at her, and SHE was screeching. That's the only possibility...
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Mariann
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It wasn't a joke. She made a huge deal out of it- but I'm glad you've dispelled the myth. [Smile]
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