posted
I found a small SUV that I like, a 2004 model. The Internet price is $10,988, and the dealer said that he would sell it for closer to 12 or 13 for someone just walking on to the lot.
What is an appropriate amount to offer and still be taken seriously? How low is too low? How high is too high? Should I be expected to pay the Internet price, soooo thankful that I didn't have to pay the lot price? (That seems to be the opinion of the dealers I've come across during my car shopping.)
I have a number that I would be fairly comfortable offering, which I arrived at by taking the values for "clean" and "average" condition and averaging them, because I consider the car to be between those two classifications. It's $10,352, which is $636 less than what they're listing it for.
Is what I want to ask too low? Or is it too high? How does this all work, generally?
About warranties... it has a couple thousand miles left on the factory warranty, and I think another warranty on a particular part/system for 1000 miles. Isn't it reasonable to expect a used dealership (franchised) to stand behind what they're selling at least for 30 days? We're concerned that we might buy this car and then have it break down almost immediately. Is there any sort of consumer protection by law or custom?
Posts: 2880 | Registered: Jun 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
I'll never buy a car on eBay again. Oh, I see, it's an internet listing. I'd always offer 20% under what they are asking in a used car situation. Have you check kbb.com?
posted
I just bought a used care (2006 Hyundai Elantra). I used consumer reports to do all of my comparison regarding what cars are good and how much they are worth.
I then used the site to help my mom buy a car. They were trying to sell her a lemon. We both got good deals and could negotiate the prices down substantially.
Mine is still under warranty until the full manufacturer warranty is expired. I also bought 4 additional years of warranty. Both my warranties are transferable if I decide to sell my car.
I would use my account for you but it has expired.
Posts: 2445 | Registered: Oct 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
I am by no means an expert in car buying, but I see no problem with offering less than the internet price.
I believe that generally speaking, most places sell used cars as is with no warranty. I don't know if there's any protection against it breaking down right away. If you're concerned, have an independent mechanic inspect the vehicle. Of course, it'll cost you, but it's a lot cheaper than finding out a month later that you've got serious problems.
Posts: 9945 | Registered: Sep 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Offer whatever you want to start with, but have a number above which you will not go.
Be prepared to walk away at least once, and also (if you're going alone) be prepared for the salesman to attempt to strongarm or hard sell you.
Posts: 5462 | Registered: Apr 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
I've checked out NADA, KBB, and Edmunds. According to all of them, the Internet price is a good price. Which is another thing to be concerned about, I think. Are they underselling for some hidden reason?
I really like the car, and I want to buy it. Not that I would tell them that.
If I offered 80%, that'd be $8790.40. Sounds great to me, but I don't think it's very reasonable.
Posts: 2880 | Registered: Jun 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
We learned in Pennsylvania, even an "As is" car has to be able to pass inspection. Of course, we had to drive the car back to Philly and have the shop that sold it fix the problems.
Also, my husband failed to ask for a bill of sale, which had a paragraph on it about his recision rights. Basically, this dealer was a scumbag.
By the way, this was the van we just bought off eBay. I was very happy with the car we got from a fellow Hatracker. :ears burning at the thought that someone might have read my first declaration wrong:
Posts: 11017 | Registered: Apr 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
It was just posted on the Internet. The actual car is just in the next town over and I've seen it and driven it.
I just talked with the dealership. I'm going to call Hyundai to see what warranty is left on the car. The dealership also offers a 1,000 mile/30 day warranty on the Drive frame, which they said includes the internal parts of the motor and the transmission. (As an example of things they don't include, he said the power window button.)
What is under the hood that might go out that is NOT the motor or transmission? I know cars are really complicated, but generally speaking? I'm concerned about breaking down and not having a workable car. I can deal with a power window button going out.
Is that warranty good? Does it cover a lot of stuff?
Posts: 2880 | Registered: Jun 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
We had to fix our own radiator, even though this car supposedly had some kind of aftermarket used car warranty. Fortunately my husband had done that before.
Anyway, obviously we just went through a rather unpleasant experience. Ours was an older car, so maybe you'll have better luck. Just after we got it, someone groaned that we had gone through a dealer at all.
Posts: 11017 | Registered: Apr 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
I bought a 2004 honda civic (fully loaded and honda certified), and I paid the internet price. It was already about 3K lower than what the price was on the lot (and way lower than KBB), and I got the distinct impression that I would be laughed at for trying to go any lower. The individual salesman was either surprised that the internet price was so low, or was an incredible actor. He asked for the printout from me, and even brought it to the manager to confirm it.
I got a good deal, and knew it. Why try and squeeze every penny out of the deal that I can? If I'd gone to the lot and talked them down the 3K, I'd have been just as happy as I was showing up with the internet printout and not haggling.
This might not be the best solution for you, but it was for me.
Posts: 5656 | Registered: Oct 1999
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by Katarain: I've checked out NADA, KBB, and Edmunds. According to all of them, the Internet price is a good price. Which is another thing to be concerned about, I think. Are they underselling for some hidden reason?
There's no way to know unless you have someone inspect it.
quote:What is under the hood that might go out that is NOT the motor or transmission?
Um . . . anything and everything? Starter, alternator, water pump, AC compressor, power steering pump, power brake master cylinder, radiator, cruise control servo. . . . Unless you're asking about the likelihood of various things going out, which is a different question. And in that case it would help to know the make and model, though even that doesn't help much.
Also, get a Carfax report or something similar. They're not always completely accurate, but they should alert you to major accidents, damage to the frame, and a few other things.
Posts: 9945 | Registered: Sep 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I asked for a carfax, and they gave me an autocheck report. It's basically the same thing. It's all good.
It's a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, and a Hyundai Dealer service department agreed to do an inspection on it for me for half price. I'm going to do that later today. It's 30 minutes away from where the car is, so if I can find a local place, I'll do it there. But I like the idea of a Hyundai dealer doing the looking. Also, the guy was really nice on the phone, and that is the place I'd be most likely to bring the car for service, so it's good to start a good relationship with a mechanic/service department early, I think.
I haven't decided whether I should negotiate price before or after I bring it to a mechanic. If before, whatever deal I make would have to be contigent on what the mechanic says, but they know I could still walk. If after, they know I've already invested some money in having it checked out, so that puts me at a slight disadvantage, but the mechanic might be able to tell me something which will affect what I want to offer.
Posts: 2880 | Registered: Jun 2004
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by Katarain: I've checked out NADA, KBB, and Edmunds. According to all of them, the Internet price is a good price. Which is another thing to be concerned about, I think. Are they underselling for some hidden reason?
I really like the car, and I want to buy it. Not that I would tell them that.
If I offered 80%, that'd be $8790.40. Sounds great to me, but I don't think it's very reasonable.
If you're going to under-offer for the car, be prepared with reasons.
A car offered at a good price according to KBB etc. may not have something wrong with it. Some dealerships sell their cars that way and make up for the lower margins with higher volume.
Posts: 4313 | Registered: Sep 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Have you gone through the side of KBB pretending you want to sell this car? I think it may give a little different information, like private party value and such. Something between used "retail" and "private party" for excellent condition is probably reasonable, assuming it is in excellent condition.
Posts: 11017 | Registered: Apr 2003
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic
