posted
Okay, I was really bothered by the mechanic saying I didn't know anything. He was mostly right! I got my car back without having to pay him and it is starting okay (if I turn the key a certain way), but I'm aware that other things still need to happen to the car. I still suspect there's a wiring issue with the battery, but before I take it in, I, Katie, am going to change the spark plugs and the fuel filter.
It's okay. I bought a book.
I can read! There are instructions! The tools will be expensive, but at least at the end I'll have the tools and the know-how and they won't be as expensive as the labor for someone else to do it. Also, the guy quoted $13 per spark plug at me and I checked - I can get them at AutoZone for $5 a piece. I can do this. I've always wanted to know how, anyway. I hate being at a disadvantage in a conversation involving a great deal of my money.
Posts: 26077 | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
So do I, actually. I've never bothered to learn how (heck, I call AAA when I have a flat tire), and I'm curious to see how difficult it is -- or isn't.
Posts: 32919 | Registered: Mar 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
Sparkplugs shouldn't be a big deal. I'm not at all sure you really want to try to change your fuel filter yourself. As I understand it, it's a lot easier to do on some cars than others. I wouldn't make it your first attempt at car maintenance.
Posts: 7954 | Registered: Mar 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Just a tip with installing spark plugs for the first time-- they're really easy to mis-thread. This is especially true if your car's engine has the spark plugs placed in an awkward location that requires the use of an extension rod or two.
My recommendation is that, when starting to screw the spark plug in, don't attach the ratchet. Just pop the plug in the spark plug socket, attach any necessary extension rods, lower the plug into place and use your hands to feel where the plug is. If you feel any resistance, reverse what you are doing and start again. You don't want to cross-thread the spark plug's hole. If that happens, it has to be re-tapped and a larger plug put into place.
The hole the spark plug is inserted into rarely sees the light of day, so it shouldn't be so rusted that you have to put a lot of torque on the spark plug to get it in. In fact, there should be almost no rust whatsoever and most of the operation should be smooth sailing. Therefore, any resistance encountered is less likely the fault of the tool or the parts than it is the fault of the operator. Just take it slow and be sure of what you are doing, and you'll be fine.
If you're lucky and the spark plugs are in a convenient location (honestly, I doubt this will happen, as front-wheel drive cars tend to have everything in inconvenient locations due to the lack of space in the engine compartment), then you should be able to use just your hands, which is much easier.
Posts: 4753 | Registered: May 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Fortunately, the spark plugs are right on top - very convenient. Fuel filter, too - I can get to it just by opening the hood.
Thanks for the tips - I plan to follow my instructions exactly. They mentioned the possibility of misthreading the spark plug and recommended something with tubing to prevent that - I need to read the section again.
I must say, I'm very pleased with the Haynes manual. It isn't perfect, but it is well-written and seems very complete. They really know their audience.
Posts: 26077 | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
You're lucky. On my Cavalier, the Fuel filter hangs on the back of the car, near the gas tank. Getting to it isn't too bad, but getting it off is an exercise in frustration. The fuel line running out of it tends to rust and expand, causing the plastic retaining clips to be wedged into position. The supposedly easy-to-remove filter quickly becomes nearly impossible to remove. The last time I had to do this (when replacing the fuel pump), I had to cut the old one off. Not something fun to do to any part attached to the fuel delivery system.
Which is to say, be very, very careful when working on the fuel filter. Honestly, unless you put some really crappy gas in the system, you probably don't need to replace the part. The only reason I replaced my fuel filter is because the pump went out and the filter was down the line. It was slightly clogged with metal and plastic fragments from the dead pump. With modern fuels and fueld tanks, the fuel filter is more of insurance than a necessary evil. Unless your car is known to need replacing of the part and you're sure that you have some sort of fuel delivery problem that's causing your car problems (though it sounds more like you're having electrical problems), I'd just skip it. Working with the fuel system can be really dangerous.
Posts: 4753 | Registered: May 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I think fuel filters are very easy to replace—even on mine, where it's back under near the gas tank. But mine wasn't rusted or anything, so it was easy to get off.
You're lucky that the spark plugs are on top. Just make sure to find out whether you need to put some anti-seize compound on them. I'm not sure I would recommend changing your spark plugs yourself if it's the first time you've ever worked on a car. As Primal said, cross-threading is a risk, and you can break off a plug if you tighten it down too much.
Posts: 9945 | Registered: Sep 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Sounds like coil-over-plug ignition. Very easy, It could be worse. It could be a 4 cylinder 2 liter VW engine... like mine. The spark plugs go in to the head at an angle UNDERNEATH the intake manifold. Doh!
*kicks VW*
Katie just earned some major points in my book.
Posts: 4229 | Registered: Dec 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Oh, and Primal Curve is right about the fuel filters katharina. I do this for a living and I've only changed one in the past year. Check your fuel rail pressure and you're fine. You have to have that done though, unless you have a fuel guage set, but it doesn't sound like you have any fuel problems from what you're describing, so I wouldn't worry about that at all.
Posts: 4229 | Registered: Dec 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I need to pick up the Haynes Manual for my new Subaru. I'm afraid to go poking around, unassisted, in Subaru's proprietary drive train.
Posts: 4753 | Registered: May 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
A trick for properly seating the plugs in the threads: exert medium downward pressure while turning the plug backwards. You will feel a pop and the plug will seat itself.
Posts: 26071 | Registered: Oct 2003
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by Primal Curve: I need to pick up the Haynes Manual for my new Subaru. I'm afraid to go poking around, unassisted, in Subaru's proprietary drive train.
Why would you need to poke around in the drivetrain? Car problems already?
Posts: 5462 | Registered: Apr 2005
| IP: Logged |
posted
No, thank God, but I'd like to familiarize myself with the system in case I do encounter problems.
Posts: 4753 | Registered: May 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Not to gloat or anything, but one of the perks of my new job* will be that I can take my car in to the auto mechanic and/or collision repair programs and the students will fix it for a nominal fee plus parts.
At least -- I think that's a perk.
*doing pr for a vocational school.
Posts: 3423 | Registered: Aug 2001
| IP: Logged |
quote: A trick for properly seating the plugs in the threads: exert medium downward pressure while turning the plug backwards. You will feel a pop and the plug will seat itself.
Dag beat me to it. Once you feel the pop, the threads are lined up and you can turn it forwards. When you feel it bottom out, turn it about a quarter turn more. If you're safe-cracker's fingers are working, you can feel the gasket crushing. Don't overtighten them.
I became an auto mechanic in part because I'm too cheap to pay someone else to do it. Now that I'm a school teacher it feels like an odd quandary. I'm spoiled by having a lift and compressed air, so, though I still enjoy working on cars, I avoid it (Even though I have a compressor, but I have to haul it up from the basement any time I want to work on the car). But now, even when I can afford to pay to have it fixed, it just seems so wrong not to do it myself, since I'm fully qualified and I have all the right tools.
Well, I bought a prius, and figured I wouldn't be qualified anymore, but so far all I've had to do is oil changes, air filters and brakes, and I've done them myself. I wonder what I'll do when it comes time for a head gasket.
Posts: 3735 | Registered: Mar 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
They're not bad Glenn, just follow the steps in the repair manual. Don't worry about draining the coolant out of the block, you do it just like any other engine, it's a totally separate system than the inverter coolant system. All the motor generators and high current stuff is in the transaxle. Just like a head gasket on a yaris/echo or scion xB and xA. They both have the same VVT-i actuator, just make sure you follow the repair manual at that critical point.
Posts: 4229 | Registered: Dec 2002
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
I've always wanted to know how, anyway. ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
points in my book.
